The Deluge

We awoke Sunday a bit earlier, in time to pack and have breakfast before hopping a taxi to Roma Termini, the main station in Rome. The driver was very friendly, chattering in English and Italian about his 3 sons ages 18, 15 and 10 and pointing out the major ruin sites we passed. That he could manage to talk to us in the back seat (using his hands the way Italians do) while maneuvering successfully through the tangled Roman traffic was nothing short of astonishing. There was only one moment when my heart was in my throat. He cut a blind corner with high walls on either side all while looking back at us...then I realized we were on a one-way road--whew! But a lovely crazy Roman ride it was.

From the station we boarded the Frecciargento--the high speed train from Rome to Florence. The ride was marvelous--smooth and a bit posh. Loie had booked us first class so we would have the extra room for our luggage. We enjoyed our complimentary snack and beverage while our ears popped and rolling green hills and tunnels flew by at 150 mph!

In Florence we checked into the Hotel Lido, a small, boutique hotel with amazing, bright, yellow, hand-trowel-polished plaster walls (a la the Walker Art Center). It's located in a quieter part of town near the Arno and across the street from our cooking school. A convenient ride on the no. 14 bus into the heart of the busy tourist area.

We unpacked and were taking a short walk in the neighborhood when the rain began. Three hours later, it was still pouring hard, but it was getting late and we needed some supper. We set out with our umbrellas and a recommendation from the hotel clerk for a bistro that was reportedly 2 minutes away. Seven or 8 minutes later, we had earned our water rescue stripes, having forded numerous rivers and dams, which had replaced the sidewalks and storm sewers!

We had arrived dripping but intact, and our spirits lifted as we entered the beautiful Outside Bistrot (what's with the terminal t?). An inauspicious name that night, but they had plenty of indoor seating too, where we enjoyed the best meal we've had in Italy yet: a delicious salad of greens, apple, pear, carrot, cabbage, fennel, and the most delightful black olives with superb olive oil and balsamic vinegar, as well as a lovely pizza with stewed tomato, olives and fresh stracciatella. We waited on the rain to let up while appreciating the kind service (no snickers when we arrived in pants 8 inches damp up the hem and dripping jackets), the gorgeous contemporary interior design, and a terrific chocolate gelato for dessert.